Sandro: Hi, this is Sandro with Galfer Braking Systems.

Robert: And I’m Robert.

Sandro: Today, we’re gonna be doing an installation on front off-road brake line. The installation, they’re always the same on all off-road lines regardless of the brand of the bike. In this case we have one of team Suzuki bikes. The first thing that we suggest is always removing the brake fluid from the brake system by uncapping the master cylinder and draining the brake fluid from the caliper.

Once the brake fluid reservoir is open, we’re gonna go down to the caliper and we’re gonna drain all the brake fluid. We’re gonna be using an industrial type Mityvac system. Again, the master cylinder is open and he’s gonna be vacuuming out the brake fluid from the bleeder nipple and the caliper.

Once your hose shows you no more brake fluid coming out of it, it means the system is already dried and we can go ahead and remove the brake line. Do keep in mind how the brake line was actually installed in the bike just in case you do have to get it back on for whatever reason. This is what you should be receiving from whomever you purchased at Galfer line. It’s a steel braided brake line. Sometimes it change in color. You have what it’s called a steel funnel section, the hard plastic area, and you have bolts and washers. Identify inside of the kit, two bolts for sure, one for the caliper and one for the master cylinder. Galfer lines have a lifetime warranty so if while you’re installing these brake lines, the brake line, something happens to it, you cut some of it or something like that, brake lines are always warranted for life.

We’re gonna go ahead and get the hose installed now. This usually never happens but if the Galfer brake line that you have received does not have the positioning of the feedings properly lined up, the feedings have a full 180 capability of rotating. You can do so by just simply putting something like a 10-millimeter drill bit through the head of the feeding and grabbing the feeding with a channel lock right in here and turning the head. Or you can put the 10-millimeter drill bit through the one side and going through the other side of the brake line putting again another one or a pen, position the line like that and rotate. One hand will move this way and the other hand will move the other way.

We’re gonna go ahead and install the brake line now, master cylinder. Your kit has two bolts and six washers. You’re only gonna be using four of the washers. The way it works is you’re gonna have a plunger bolt, a washer, a feeding, another washer right on the other side and then that whole system gets plugged directly onto the master cylinder.

One of the things that you’re looking for when installing the front brake line is once you have the line routed properly, make sure that the brake line is not hitting the spokes. The brake line should be clamped over here on that clamp that comes from the factory and it should not be touching or hitting anything. If you know and you can see that your installing has been properly done that we have done our work making sure that the length was correct and everything, you can then go ahead and start tightening everything up and we’re gonna move on to the process of bleeding the brake line.

We’re gonna start the process of bleeding the brake line. At the master cylinder, we have emptied everything out that was the stock brake fluid and we’re gonna go ahead and fill up a little bit the master cylinder. Be careful not to spray ever any brake fluid on the brake pads. If you put any brake fluid on the brake pads, you need to replace them. And also, if you have beautiful graphics and you really don’t want anything messed up, I would suggest you cover it back. Brake fluid is extremely corrosive.

Master cylinder is now full of brake fluid. Throughout this whole process of bleeding the line, we do not want to have the master cylinder catching any air. So, what we’re gonna be doing now is we’re gonna be pumping on the master cylinder brake lever and we’re gonna be opening the bleeder nipple at the caliper. We’re also gonna be aiding ourselves with a vacuum system where we’re gonna try to transfer the brake fluid from the master cylinder down to the caliper. Again, be very careful not to run out of brake fluid on the master cylinder or you’ll be sucking in air.

Once in a while when we start the bleeding process, you’ll realize right away that as you have transferred brake fluid down to the caliper whether it’s been with a Mityvac or syringe or whichever form you’ve used, the master cylinder will immediately start showing bubbles. One way to get rid of those bubbles right away and therefore allowing brake fluid to get into the system is by grabbing your brake lever and releasing it very rapidly. The bubbles I don’t know, the bubbles will immediately start coming out of the system and as you can see, we’re starting to get a pretty consistent amount of brake air bubbles off the system. As you’re doing this with your brake lever, you just let the brake lever go out hard and brake fluid starting to pump back into the system and air coming out of it.

The process we’re gonna be following now is we’re gonna pump the brake lever. You can pump it like five or six times, then you’re gonna hold to the brake lever down. You’re not gonna release the brake lever and whomever is helping you down at the caliper, they’re gonna open up the bleeder nipple at the caliper, air is gonna come out, they’re gonna close the bleeder nipple and then you’ll gonna be able to release the brake lever. So, we’re gonna go ahead and start one, two, three, four, five, six, go ahead. We open up, air comes out through the system, close. Now, we’ll release the brake the lever, one, two, three. This is basically the process of bleeding a brake line. You just constantly pumping and what you’re doing is you’re removing the air from the system and getting it out through the caliper. Go ahead.

Because you have a single brake line, in many cases, it’s very convenient to move the master cylinder, the handle bars positioning. Sometimes, brake fluid might be trapped in here and you move the handle bar a little bit and brake fluid comes up easier. Like right now for example, our brake lever is almost rock solid already. Because as you’re changing the pitch of how the pressure is going down to the caliper, you’re also allowing for air to come out. Go ahead.

In some instances, you might be working with a master cylinder that it’s a little bit worn out, not as new as obviously this one that we’re working on, this one to almost no time. Another trick for you to get rid of the air on the system would be by holding the brake lever, you’d come up here to the plunger bolt and you’d crack the plunger bolt open, put a rag around it. Crack it open, the brake lever comes all the way down, close the plunger bolt and then release the brake lever. What you have just done is you’ve removed all the air that is concentrated here and that you have been able to get rid of through the top.

If you encounter any problems such as bleeding the brake lines and something that you perhaps have not heard us talk about here throughout the video, by all means, contact us at or by calling us at our 800 tech line. We’ll be more than glad to help you as much as we can.

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